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Spotlight
on Madeira
Henriques
& Henriques
Estrada
de Santa Clara, 10, 9300-145 Camara de Lobos, Madeira, Portugal
E-mail: madeirawine@henriquesehenriques.pt
Reviewing the Madeira producers
is a relatively straightforward task. There are just six companies
licensed for export: Henriques & Henriques, Justinhos, Madeira
Wine Company (includes brands such as Blandys, Cossart Gordon),
D'Oliveiras, Barbeito and HM Borges. In addition, there is a small
high quality producer called Barros e Sousa who have a cult following
on the island but which aren't licensed for export. I'm beginning with
Henriques & Henriques, who make a solid range which is now being
carried by UK supermarket Waitrose, in convenient 50 cl bottles
(retail prices from £7 to £17).
Sercial 10 year old
Palish orange/brown colour. Delicate nose is slightly lemony. The
palate is crisp showing good acidity and nice lemony/herby aromas. A
very fresh wine that could do with just a touch more complexity. Very
good+ 88/100
Verdelho 15 year old
Deep orange brown. Nose of lemons, marmalade and spice. Lovely
nutty palate with good acidity and really nice balance. Finishes well
with notes of oranges. Not overly sweet and very well balanced. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Bual 10 year old
Brown/orange colour. There’s a nice tarry richness to the
caramel and raisin nose. Soft, rich nutty palate with good acidity.
Very fresh, with some sweetness, a rich texture and good balance.
Finishes with an appealing bitter twang. Very good+ 89/100
Malmsey 15 year old
Orange/brown colour. Nice acid lift offsets the raisiny sweetness
on the nose. Soft, rich-textured palate displays caramel flavours with
balancing acidity and a long finish. Very good/excellent 90/100
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