Website http://mullineuxwines.com

Mullineux Family Wines is one of the most exciting producers in perhaps South Africa’s most exciting wine region – the Swartland. The Mullineux family (pictured) is Chris and Andrea, who were previously both at Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards. They left in 2007, got married and moved to Riebeek Kasteel to start their own venture, with support from Keith Prothero and Peter Dart. ‘The Swartland was our only choice,’ says Chris. ‘It was a no brainer.’

They were tempted to join the new Swartland pioneers over in Paardeberg (with its predominantly granitic soils), but in the end they opted for Riebeek Kasteel, and its shale and schist.

But they’re not just restricting themselves to just one terroir type – they are leasing vineyard blocks across the region, from a range of soils, with 7 hectares across 21 different vineyards. ‘During our time at TMV we started forays into the Swartland and learned which growers are farming well,’ says Chris. For the last two vintages they have rented winery space at Reynecke, who have a shared winemaking philosophy.

The Mullineux approach, in both the vineyard and winery, is to work as naturally as possible without compromising quality. Three wines are made, a white blend, a Syrah and a sweet ‘straw wine’. ‘For the white we blend several different varieties to get complexity,’ says Andrea, ‘but for the red we blend in several different parcels from three soil types: decomposed granite (freshness), schist/shale (richness) and red clay (mid-palate depth).’

There’s a clear understanding of the influence of terroir here.

THE WINES

Mullineux White 2008
4000 bottles made. This is 80% Chenin Blanc, half of which comes from the granite soils of Lammershoek, some from Adi Badenhorst, and the rest from the schale and schist of Riebeek. The granite brings freshness, the shale/schist brings more apricot and peach characters. The remaining 20% is made up of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier. This is complex, fresh and herby with a subtly apricot-tinged nose. The palate is rich and full with lovely expressive herby, straw and nut notes, as well as sweet pear and apricot fruit. It has a rounded, ripe finish. 91/100

Mullineux Syrah 2008
20% whole clusters used. Very floral and aromatic with lovely purity and elegance to the fruit, which is both red and black. The palate has lovely pepperiness and elegance with spice and fresh cherry and plum fruit. Lovely sweetness, too. Really elegant; almost profound, with a subtle meatiness. Beautiful wine. 95/100

Mullineux Straw Wine 2008
Made with air-dried Chenin Blanc grapes. 250 cases made; 10.5% alcohol. A full bronze colour. Rich, aromatic, concentrated and very sweet, with a raisiny, spicy edge to the luscious apricot and peach fruit. Lovely high acidity counters the intense sweetness. Complex, rich and thought-provoking. 93/100

SOUTH AFRICA REVISITED
Part 1, Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards
Part 2, Cape Point Vineyards
Part 3, AA Badenhorst Family Wines
Part 4, Eben Sadie: Sadie Family Wines and Sequillo Cellars
Part 5, Paul Kretzel of Lammershoek
Part 6, Mullineux Family Wines
Part 7, Vondeling
Part 8, Scali
Part 9, Sterhuis
Part 10, Raats
Part 11, Migliarina
Part 12, Charles Back and Fairview
Part 13, Hermit on the Hill
Part 14, Klein Constantia
Part 15, Iona, Elgin
Part 16, Paul Cluver, Elgin
Part 17, Eagles' Nest, Constantia
Part 18, Anthonij Rupert
Part 19, Oak Valley, Elgin
Part 20, Shannon, Elgin

Wines tasted 11/09  
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com

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